Walking Through History, Bathed in Blue

By Carlea Bauman

In 1459, King Rao Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur, India built the Mehrangarh Fort to protect the city. That same year, his wife, Queen Jasmade Hadi, built a lake at the foot of the fort, designed to catch rainwater runoff from the surrounding hills so that the fort’s residents had clean, fresh water. Soon thereafter, she built another nearby for locals who resided outside the fort.

And so began a system where the men in charge would focus on building forts and palaces to protect the city, and women would focus on building reservoirs of water so that its residents could survive in the desert. The reservoirs never ran out of water, even today, though they are no longer used for public consumption.

In February 2025, a group of American women–Jenny Bass, Judy Klein, and Kelly Sax, along with Sambhali U.S. Board members Shereen Arent, Ellie Hamburger, and Ginka Poole–learned about the role of women and water in Jodhpur through Sambhali Walks, a walking tour that floods the senses with the sights, smells, and tastes of this old city with so much to offer. Their trek was led by Virendra Chouhan, the Public Relations Officer at Sambhali Trust. “He was so charming,” said Kelly, “and a great storyteller.”

Sambhali Walks is an initiative of the newly launched Sambhali Development Foundation, a nonprofit company organized under Indian law for activities that can generate income. It was created alongside Sambhali Trust to enhance the organization’s sustainability and self-reliance.

The tour makes stops at several of these reservoirs, called stepwells, which are works of art in and of themselves. “There are a large series of steps that go down to the well as if it’s a stadium. But they have very intricate designs,” marveled Judy.

Women would go to the wells to retrieve water for their homes and families. While there, they would socialize and discuss the hot topics of the day. In perhaps one of the earliest examples of a focus group, the king’s men would dress as women and hang out at the wells and listen in on these conversations, providing valuable feedback to those in charge.

After visiting the wells, the group walked through the old city of Jodhpur, called Brahmapuri, famous for its bright blue houses, which originally represented the homes of the Brahmins, traditionally considered the highest caste in India. As they traveled down the slender streets, Virendra brought them to an old chai shop, run by the same family for over 120 years. Said Judy, “Such an experience. It’s a beautiful place. Narrow streets, beautiful blue walls. It was special.”

Moving on, the women came to an unusual altar on the tour. It was a small figure of a man with an opening in the groin called, The God of Fertility. “A woman wanting children makes a penis, shaped out of dough, sticks it in the altar, and prays to become pregnant with a boy child,” Kelly explained.

The walk ended at Sambhali Cafe, located within Sambhali Sarai, the new center for women and members of the LGBTQIA+ community seeking sanctuary and economic opportunity. “The building is beautifully restored,” said Ellie. “It is a gorgeous example of the architecture of the time.” Judy agreed, “It was such a calm, serene place. It has a very protected and centered feeling to it.”

At the cafe, they were treated to a “Best of Jodhpur” tasting from area businesses which were “yummy!” according to Ellie. "The offerings were wonderful,” added Jenny, “but even more impressive to me was the Pride flag that was flying boldly below the fort in the middle of the old city.”

As they rested their legs, they felt energized by what they’d seen and learned. “All of it was fascinating,” said Kelly. Judy enjoyed how personalized the tour felt. “The group was small enough that we could ask questions. And Virendra is so knowledgeable about the city.”

The tour shows a different side of Jodhpur than the typical sightseeing stops. “It gave a different angle,” said Ellie. “It’s off the beaten path.” Perfect for the traveler who wants to delve into the layers of this multi-colored and multi-tiered city.

Follow Sambhali Walks on Instagram. Those traveling to Jodhpur can book a tour via WhatsApp at +91784990743.